2019 June - Port 2 (L'Ardoise) to Narbonne

JUNE 2019  Port 2 L'Ardoise to Narbonne

We live in the very South of France, near the Spanish border. For a couple of years we would travel up to Port 2 to stay on the boat, explore locally and do maintenance. The trip took 4 hours each way, however, and we were not getting full use of the boat, and not keeping up with the level of maintenance needed for a barge of over 100 years old. It was clear that she needed to move further south  and Narbonne is the port on the canal system closest to home. (see notes below on getting a mooring)
We decided to move early in the 2019 season, and get the trip done as soon as we could to secure our berth in Narbonne. This was to be a delivery trip rather than a cruise. If I had a spare month I would happily take my time and enjoy a trip full of variety, nature and history. I reckoned that we could manage the trip in five days, at a pinch. Preparations were made to get the boat ready in May after the spring floods had ended, and arrangements were made for David and Julian to move the boat.

31 May  2019 - Port 2 to Aramon

Leaving Port 2 marina

The two of us travelled up to Avignon  by train and took a bus to Port 2. By 1435 we were ready to leave and set off down this quiet arm of the Rhone. The weather was fair and there was only 1kph of current in the Rhone. We took it easy to start (7kph) as we are used to some overheating of the engine after not using the boat for a while. This was familiar territory for us: under the TGV bridges, past the lovely quiet quay at Roquemaure opposite the Tour de l'Hers, through the Avignon lock and past the beautiful city after a 45 minute delay, and past the entrance to the Durance. We knew that places to moor would be a problem after the Beaucaire lock so at 1930 we tied up at the friendly marina at Aramon for the night.
5hrs and 37km in the day

1 June 2019 - Aramon to Aigues Mortes
With a long day ahead we rose early, leaving at 0605 and were approaching the Beaucaire lock at 0730. The river narrows at Tarascon, increasing the current significantly so at 0830 we were doing more than 12kph over the ground heading South. The Rhone here is much wider and natural with wooded banks. We were still doing 11kph at 0930 as the skyline of Arles came into view and the sign for the entrance to the Petit Rhone.

This delightful 20km stretch of river is heavily wooded, beautiful, calm and peaceful - but beware! The channel markers at either side mark the end of vicious metal groynes, visible only occasionally above the water. Keep well clear.

The lock at St Gilles which guards the entrance to the Canal de Rhone a Sete was open when we arrived. We were into the junction canal in ten minutes and joined the Rhone a Sete at 1315, heading towards Aigues Mortes where we had arranged to pick up two friends to complete the trip.

White horses on the Camargue marshes

This Canal runs 52km through the Camargue, wild and open, with lots of bird life - egrets, nesting bee-eaters, squacco heron, and  many waders as well as bulls and the famous white horses.

The historic town of Aigues Mortes is a boating and tourist centre. Both the marinas and the narrow streets are full to the brim in season. There is a canal to bypass it, but to get through the centre near the station you must wait for the railway swing bridge.  We arrived at 1630, picked up Karla and Dan, and were on our way at 1715.

Sunset over the Camargue

We rejoined the Canal de Rhone a Sete, looking for a suitable overnight mooring. At 1830 we passed a new commercial loading quay bristling with "no mooring" signs. Since it was Saturday night and we were leaving early on Sunday we tied up as the sun was setting at the end of an amazing day. In our haste we had neglected to fill up water tanks on leaving Port 2, so no showers.
In day: 12 hours 76km





2 June 2019 - Aigues Mortes to Ecluse Bagnas (Canal de Midi)

Early fog  was clearing at 0830 as we left after engine checks, breakfasting as we motored between the sea and the flamingo-filled salt lakes through the mist, and stopping briefly at Carnon for drinking water. The passage through Frontignan  is limited by a lifting bridge which opens briefly twice a day. Check the times as they do vary, and get there early. As the sea breeze filled in at lunchtime we had negotiated the swing bridge  after Palavas and were nearing Frontignan, arriving at 1345 and tying to on the port hand quayside. Time for a little shopping and lunch before the bridge opened at 1600 and we motored through to the Etang de Thau.

Entering the Etang de Thau from the Canal de Rhone a Sete

The Etang de Thau, is a large inland saltwater lake over 21km long, 4km wide with an average depth of 4m. It is classed as marine waters and you are advised to carry the appropriate chart, and be aware that there are sandbanks to the east, oyster beds to the west and there can be steep waves at the southern end during a tramontane. Having said that, these are ideal waters for De Jonge Jacob, very like the Ijsselmeer where she was built in 1912 (only warmer). We shall certainly come back to sail here, but for now we must press on.

Crossing the Etang de Thau (and half of Julian)

A perfect crossing with a force 3 easterly. Having gained the channel after the N Cardinal "Homme Noir", the channel runs 225 degrees.
Two and a half hours later, as you approach the entry to the Canal de Midi the channel markers become  clear, and you pass the Glenans sailing school to port.

Moorings are hard to find at the entry to the Canal du Midi so we moved on as the sun set to the first lock, the Ecluse de Bagnas and moored to the grassy bank at 2050.          

In day 10.5 hours 61km. Total trip so far 174km



3 June 2019 - Canal du Midi.   Bagnas lock to Poilhes

Canal du Midi  the classic view.

Life in the Canal du Midi is governed by lock opening times. 0900 to 1200 and 1300 to 1900. The locks are mostly oval and operated electrically from a console ashore, so you either must put someone ashore to do this, or follow another boat in. There are bollards ashore, often set back from the edge so you cannot see them when ascending, but deeper locks have vertical tubes set in the walls to moor up to. The canal is often shaded by plane trees, but sadly many are dying through disease and a massive programme of replanting is under way.

Liberon River crossing, a tight squeeze.

           We left the ecluse de Bagnas at 0910 after which several locks descend to the crossing of the Herault river. This presents no problem if the river in not in spate, but the circular lock with three exits at Agde is a surprise, not least because the helmsman enters the lock into which he cannot see, 16 metres after the bow does. This makes it an entertaining sight for onlookers. We left at 1130 with our pride only slightly dented, but no other damage.
By 1210 we were negotiating the narrow crossing of the Libron River with its complex flood control gates, and 10km further on we are approaching Beziers, with an assault course of a lifting bridge, the Port Neuf, an aquaduct full of weed to wrap round the prop, and then the notorious Fonseranes Flight of seven connected locks. Apparently this is the third most visited tourist site in Languedoc after the Pont de Gard and Carcassonne.You need a well drilled team who keep their wits about them.

We entered the first oval lock of the flight at 1735 with one crew member ashore and three on board.The VNF lockkeeper opened the locks two at a time which at least keeps you some
distance from the waterfalls ahead as you ascend the locks. To add to the entertainment there is a bridge in the middle which the lines have to pass around. You can see why it is popular with tourists, who can gawp and laugh at the chaos below. All credit to my crew who handled the lines  with ease and confidence even though this was our first trip together and our first flight of this kind too. We left Fonseranes behind at 1815, having gained 21 metres in height, the reward for which was no locks to negotiate until the Canal de la Robine.

An hour later at 1930 we passed through the town of Columbiers after which the ground around us became more undulating and just as it seemed we were trapped by the hills the entrance to the Malpas tunnel loomed ahead. Although very short (161 metres) compared to some of the tunnels we had encountered in northern France, any tunnel requires concentration as the boat can easily be drawn towards the sides of the tunnel from which it can be difficult to escape.

By 1950 we were clear of the tunnel and looking out for a good place to moor up, which we did next to the canal bank a  kilometre or so east of Poilhes at 2045.

In Day 12 hours 39km.  Trip total so far 40 hours 213km



June 4th 2019 - Poilhes to Narbonne

By now the pressure was on to get back to work, and the weather forecast was deteriorating too, After four brilliant days we now faced a strengthening north westerly with gusts of force 4-5. With no locks to cope with, we made an early start at 0600, passing through Poilhes and then Capstang, and the very low  Capstang bridge at 0730. In these very sinuous sections of the canal progress is necessarily slow, with speed usually of 5kph, and down to 3kph in places where there are tight bends and pleasure craft moored on both sides. We simply cannot manoeuvre in the way lighter craft can.

We passed through Argeliers at 1025 and at 1125 entered the Canal de Jonction. Here there are seven locks each 6 or 7 hundred metres apart dropping down to the crossing of the river Aude. Karla went ashore on a bike to take the lines. We completed the first two before the locks closed for lunch at 1200, restarting at 1300 and completing the last by 1535.

Karla and Dan on the bow as we enter Narbonne

 The Aude crossing presents no problem unless in spate and at 1545 we entered the Canal de la Robine - the final stretch. Just when you think everything is plain sailing things start to go wrong. In the first lock there was a near capsize as the gunwhale of a pleasure craft caught the lock edge as the boat descended. The VNF official at the lock moved quickly to avoid what could have been a nasty moment. At the next lock - nothing. The lock would not work and we had to call up the same VNF lockkeeper who arrived with a generator in a van after some delay.
There was a similar delay at the lock de Gua, right on the edge of Narbonne. It was now after 1730 and with the locks closing at 1900 it looked like we might spend the night tantalisingly close. Just in time the VNF man arrived yet again and we passed through the lock and on to the ecluse de Narbonne next to the Capitainerie and the very low Pont des Marchands at 1840. By 1850 we were moored up in the centre of town in our new berth having cleared the last lock with 10 minutes to spare.
In day 11.5 hours  40km.  Total  trip 50.5 engine hours    253km

Various Notes on the trip

De Jonge Jacob in her new berth.

Getting a mooring 
Everyone likes a Dutch barge. De Jonge Jacob attracts attention and enhances the port.On this trip we had a couple clap as we went past, and many admiring comments, not to mention the Dutch tourists who always take an interest. It is noticeable that if you ring or write to a harbourmaster about a long term place the answer is almost invariably "it's very difficult. We have no space." If you arrive with your boat for a shorter stay, however, put up the mast, touch up  the varnish and tidy the decks it is surprising how often a place becomes available. My short term offer of a berth became a full time one in three weeks. And it is not the first time this has happened.

Mooring anchors
A few years ago another barge owner recommended spiral steel mooring anchors made by Spirafix. They can be driven in with a small lump hammer, and easily removed without damaging the bank. They held my 30 ton barge securely on several occasions during this trip and I pass the recommendation on. 

Looking south from the berth along the Canal de la Robine.

Fresh water
I have complained in other parts of this blog about the lack of access to basic facilities for smaller cruising vessels. We were short of water on this trip and kept an eye out over five days for access to fresh water for which I will gladly pay, but only managed to fill a few containers from a camp site. Marinas have water on the quayside, usually switched off, or accessible only by code or a card. When you go to the Capitainerie there is nobody about.

Black Water Tanks etc
A few years ago I considered removing the sea toilet on board and refitting black water tanks. In northern Europe this is probably a good move but in France I find it is simply too difficult to find pump-out facilities. Asking other boatowners on the Rhone about this I was told there is often no option but to pump out in the river. On De Jonge Jacob the sea toilet is still fitted, and also a cassette chemical toilet for use when needed. On board there is a convention that if a crew member suggests stopping for  coffee , we stop at the next available cafe with a loo.

Security
You will see from earlier in the blog that I left De Jonge Jacob in an unsecured marina next to a modern shopping centre in Lyon in October 2015. Is this a risk, or does video protection and an active police presence make the city centre safer than mooring on the canalside in a more remote spot? My present mooring in Narbonne town centre is covered by CCTV security cameras and I point this out on a sign on the boat.  I make a point also of getting to know local cafe owners, and exchange contact details with other boat owners, helping the local youngsters recover their footballs when they go in the canal etc(twice in the past three weeks).The more people take an interest in my boat, the better - or am I tempting fate?

What next?
De Jonge Jacob is now only an hour away by train (8.60€ with  senior card) We will keep well clear of the Canal du Midi in August, getting maintenance done and exploring the Canal de la Robine. In the Autumn and Spring we can explore our new cruising grounds, and there is the prospect of getting the sails up in the Etang de Thau too.